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Ines de la Fressange, who did a star turn on the runway, wore a black one-shoulder jersey "smoking" dress with an asymmetrical hem, and later a long, body-skimming jersey dress with a cropped tuxedo jacket in white satin. She looked great. Gaultier took things right to the edge鈥攁nd without setting off the gong. Those opening dresses, with wide satin panels tracing the v-front, were strange; not like any style, really, out there. Which of course is the point of couture. He worked fished net into the backs of a trench coat, and another kind of lacework ran up the sides of a black high-waisted skirt. The fantasy pieces usually involved a corseted bodysuit, with the back pulled tight up the rear, and some bit of transparent froth splashing over it. There were more (almost) bare bottoms on the runway than at the Crazy Horse. Well, maybe not quite. But you sure don't get much hint of sex these days at the couture, and not much fun, either. That's what Gaultier is for this season. 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